The “tailor-made” can also concern the manufacture of a single object not used to dress but corresponding to precise dimensions. In this case, there is no systematic relationship between the morphology and the result of manufacture, only the customer’s desires matter. It is customary to use the term “special order”.
In a field related to fashion, tailor-made is also practiced by malletiers such as Moynat, Louis Vuitton, the very old Goyard, or even the most recent Ephtée or Pinel & Pinel; They know how to respond to any request for dimensions and integrations of the most diverse external elements. Jewelery is also an area used to the special order realized to the wishes of the buyers (and sometimes to the morphology in the case of a ring or a bracelet). The manufacture is done by hand by a jeweler craftsman with his workshop and a stone crimper. The tailor-made begins with the choice of a stone for which the jewel will be fashioned, or from a drawing or a sketch, enabling the jewel on which the stones will be mounted later to be envisaged. The half-measure is also practiced, with jewels whose frame already exists and which the customer can adapt according to his tastes and his budget. Optics is also an area in which tailor-made products exist, such as the art-master Lunetier Christian Bonnet, who can take up to fifteen measures to manufacture spectacles. For the vast majority of these companies, the concept of Made in France is “a vital and vital guarantee,” including for selling abroad. In the mid-2000s, with the standardization of the global brands of ready-to-wear clothing and the choice to return to authenticity, the tailor-made men’s wardrobe marked a notable return to habits – measure. In a more general way, human expenditure on clothing is increasing rapidly; The IFM points out that around the year 2010, men’s clothing expenditure suffered less recession than female clothing. This period began symbolically with the arrival of Hedi Slimane in the artistic direction of Dior Homme, an event that marks a turning point with collections that met with great success.
For only a few years, or for decades, several major brands have created or perpetuated the tradition of tailoring to the image of Hermès, Lanvin, Paul Smith, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Pope in the 7th arrondissement, Starck & Sons, Dior Homme, Brioni, Francesco Smalto who is a Living Heritage Company by his know-how, or Charvet. The brand Hugo Boss, the world leader in ready-to-wear clothing, created in 2013 a semi-ready fashion department and the Italian Dolce & Gabbana offer tailor-made service not far from Savile Row and Gucci launches A collection available in half-measure. The male tailor-made market thus remains dynamic with the arrival of these many new players, sometimes coming from ready-to-wear, working in small or half-measures.
The interest of tailor-made, artisanal and local activities, most often held by artisans independent of major luxury groups, is symbolized by the acquisition of the tailor Arnys in 2012 by the world’s leading luxury group, LVMH, under the principle of “The notion of transmission of know-how”. He is a renowned tailor made since 1933 in Paris, a specialist of great size34,33. Among his clients are Jean Cocteau, François Mitterrand, Laurent Fabius, François Fillon or Pierre Bergé and many dandies. All the realizations of the house can be tailor-made9 on the first floor of the house, or ready-to-wear. Similarly, for the shirt, Charvet remains fiercely independent. The traditional tailor remains a “neutral zone”, a place of exchange where one discusses, exchanges, and confides. Each fitting, sometimes compared to “initiation rites”, lasting an hour, all subjects are approached, in all discretion. The universe of men’s tailors is exclusively male and clients are most often unaccompanied.
For the shirt, there remain in the years 2010 less than a dozen specialists in France able to manufacture to a great extent. Some brands, such as Ralph Lauren or Zilli, offer half-service services. The footwear sector also includes a number of custom-made boots, such as the London-based shoemaker John Lobb, or the art master Pierre Corthay, who says: “Our society needs roots, objects manufactured by True humans, with real matter, a history, a consistency. A pair of tailor-made shoes may require fifty hours of labor.
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